Where the Hot Pans Go.
A Thanksgiving day-of timeline, three sheet pan sides, and one stretch of counter that saves the whole afternoon.
It's 3:45. The turkey is resting on the stovetop. The stuffing and the squash are out and balanced on a cutting board. Someone is holding a tray of rolls and asking where it should go. Someone else is looking for the trivets, which are in a drawer, under the good tablecloth, probably.
Most kitchens run out of safe surface right when they need it most.
Ours don't. A solid stainless counter takes a pan straight out of a 425°F oven. No marks, no cracks, no burnt ring to explain later. You just put it down.
So the one change we'd make this year is this. Before anyone starts cooking, clear a stretch of counter next to the oven and call it the landing strip. Nothing goes there but hot pans. By 3:45, everything has a place.
- 01About three feet, right next to the oven. Enough for a roasting pan and two sheet pans side by side.
- 02Clear it in the morning and keep it clear. Prep, drinks and the cheese board live somewhere else.
- 03Set pans down, don't drag them. The steel holds warmth for a few minutes after a pan comes off, and the matte finish stays even.
How the day runs
This assumes a 12 to 14 lb turkey. All three sides roast at 425°F, so the oven only changes temperature once. Pick your dinner time and the whole schedule moves with it.
- Night beforeCube the bread for the stuffing and leave it out to dry.
- 10:30amTurkey out of the fridge. Clear the landing strip.
- 11:00amOven on to 325°F.
- 11:30amTurkey in. Plan on 3 to 3.5 hours.
- 1:00pmPrep the sides while the oven is busy. Slice the squash, trim the beans, cook the onion and celery.
- 2:30pmStart checking the turkey. You want 165°F in the thickest part of the thigh.
- 3:00pmTurkey out onto the strip, foil on top. Oven up to 425°F.
- 3:10pmSquash and stuffing in, one on each rack.
- 3:20pmGravy on the stove from the drippings.
- 3:40pmSquash and stuffing out onto the strip. Green beans in.
- 3:45pmCarve. Rolls in for the last 8 minutes.
- 3:55pmBeans and rolls out. Lemon and almonds go on right there on the counter.
- 4:00pmSit down. Nobody asked where anything goes.
The sides
Three sides, all on sheet pans, all built to go oven to counter to table.
Maple roasted squash with crispy sage
Sweet, salty and a little spicy. Delicata skin is thin enough to eat, so there's no peeling.
- 2 medium delicata squash (or 1 small butternut)
- 3 tbsp olive oil, plus 2 tbsp for the sage
- 2 tbsp maple syrup
- 1 tsp salt and a few grinds of pepper
- 12 fresh sage leaves
- Pinch of chili flakes
- 01Halve the squash, scoop the seeds and slice into half-inch half moons.
- 02Toss with oil, maple, salt, pepper and chili. Spread on a sheet pan in one layer.
- 03Roast at 425°F for 25 to 30 minutes, flipping once, until the edges caramelize.
- 04While it roasts, fry the sage in 2 tbsp oil over medium heat for about a minute until crisp. Drain on a paper towel.
- 05Pull the pan straight onto the counter. Crumble the sage over the top and serve from the pan.
Crispy-edge sheet pan stuffing
Baking stuffing flat means more browned edges and less waiting. It comes out bubbling and goes right onto the steel.
- 1 lb sourdough, cut into 1-inch cubes and left out overnight to dry
- 8 tbsp butter
- 1 large onion, diced
- 3 celery ribs, diced
- 2 tbsp chopped fresh sage
- 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
- 2 eggs
- 2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
- 1 tsp salt and plenty of pepper
- 01Melt the butter in a large pan. Cook the onion and celery for 8 to 10 minutes until soft. Stir in the herbs.
- 02Whisk the eggs into the stock.
- 03Toss the bread with the vegetables, then pour the stock over and mix until everything is evenly damp.
- 04Spread on a buttered sheet pan.
- 05Bake at 425°F for 25 to 30 minutes, until the top is deep golden and the edges are crisp.
- 06Straight onto the counter. Serve from the pan.
Blistered green beans with lemon and almonds
The last thing in and the fastest. Fifteen minutes in the oven while you carve.
- 1.5 lb green beans, trimmed
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 lemon, zested and halved
- 1/3 cup sliced almonds
- 01Toss the beans with oil and salt on a sheet pan. One layer.
- 02Roast at 425°F for 15 to 18 minutes, until blistered in spots.
- 03Toast the almonds in a dry pan for 2 to 3 minutes while the beans roast.
- 04Pull the pan onto the strip. Squeeze half the lemon over, add the zest and almonds. Done.
Sorting out what to pour? We matched a wine to every classic dish, these three sides included, in The Thanksgiving Wines Nobody Else Will Bring.
Set it down.
Sit down.